Creating Bulk PSA Submission Order

I just completed another 100-card bulk PSA order, and I will share with you the exact steps I took. You must follow each step carefully to ensure a smooth and successful bulk submission to PSA.

If you’re brand new and have never submitted to PSA, watch my tutorial on submitting to PSA video. I’ll post a link to that video right here.

Are you a Collectors Club member?

I’m going to go ahead and assume that you have already joined the PSA silver, gold, or platinum membership and have access to the bulk pricing discounts.

Have you submitted smaller orders to PSA?

I’m also going to assume that you have already submitted to PSA and understand the entire submission process. If not, I suggest you read the article on how to submit to PSA.

This article is meant for collectors ready to take their PSA game to the next level and submit 50 cards and up.

Step #1. Choose the cards you want to submit.

Ok, if you’re like me, keep your PSA candidates separate from your collection and buy/sell cards. So this is easy for me to do. I pull the box down, scrummage through them, and decide what cards I want to submit. After accumulating a decent size pile, you’re ready to move on to step #2.

Step #2. Inspect them and attach a pull ticket.

Step #2 is optional, but I highly suggest you do this. So, what you’re going to need is a magnifying lamp with a light on it. Preferably an LED light. I use the Brightech Lightview Pro, which has a vast opening to view your cards in. It allows you to catch any surface damage or corner dings that you’re naked eye can’t see. Furthermore, the LED light stays cool to the touch and offers extreme light, making it easy to see imperfections.

Using the right tools to inspect

What you want to do is pick the best of the best. You don’t want to throw your money away on cards that have noticeable surface scratches, edge wear, or corner whitening, do you? Then you have to invest in tools to quickly identify any issues with the cards, like a magnifying lamp. Once I’ve determined a card to be a non-PSA candidate, I take it out of the grading candidate holder and put it in a top loader. This way, you don’t pull it out to inspect it again.

Jewelers loupe

Another helpful tool that I use is a jeweler’s loupe. These things work great for identifying corner wear and edge wear. They’re cheap and come with LED and black light, which helps tremendously. Don’t forget to turn them off when you’re done using them otherwise, the batteries will burn out.

Attach the Pull ticket

When you’ve determined a card is in mint to gem mint condition and ready for submission, you want to put a post-it note ticket on the penny sleeve before inserting it back into the card save. This will allow the graders at PSA to easily remove the card from the holder.

Doing this will allow for a speedier return and theoretically improve your chances to land higher grades by making it easier for the guy having to pull your 50-plus cards out to inspect and grade them. I talk more about how to increase your chances of getting better grades with PSA in this article.

Step #3. Organize your cards.

After you’ve chosen your 50-plus PSA candidates, you want to organize them sensibly. Essentially, you separate them by category. So put all the sports cards together, including baseball, basketball, football, soccer, hockey, etc., and if you have any Pokemon, Magic the Gathering, Yu-Gi-Oh, or another category, organize them all together.

You want to organize them by category because it makes the process of filling out the submission form easier for you and grading them easier on PSA. Both parties win.

After you’ve separated them by category, separate them by set. If you have Topps Chrome basketball, baseball, and football cards, pair up any duplicate cards and organize them all together. It doesn’t matter which sport goes first. Make sure all the Topps chrome or similar sets are in line with each other.

It could be bowman chrome, Optic, Prizm, Bowman’s best foil cards, or whatever refractor-type cards. Because they all appear to be similar, group them. If your entire submission is refractor cards, organize it by the year. So put all the 2002 cards, 2004, 2016, and so forth. Group those next to each other if you have any vintage cards, panini stickers, foils, autographs, game-used cards, or similar parallels.

Step #4. Enter the cards on submission form.

After you’ve chosen your PSA candidates and sensibly organized them, the fourth step is to enter the cards in the online PSA submission form.

You want to be sure and take your time with this. Be sure to know what the card you’re submitting is called. If it’s a sports card, you need to know the year, the set, the parallel, and the player. If it’s a Pokemon or other trading card game card, be sure to research the year and set.

You don’t want to guess or assume that PSA will correct the information because it’s not their job. It’s your job to ensure the information on the form is accurate. If not, you may get a card back with the wrong label. Which happens quite often.

When submitting multiple examples of the same card, input the correct quantity. This is where the importance of step three becomes evident. Because you’ve already organized your cards, you know which cards have multiple examples. Furthermore, entering the parallels for a particular set, such as the 2017 National Treasures, will be easier when you have them all together. You don’t have to go back and forth from 2016 Optic to 2003 Topps Chrome to 2017 Burning Shadows back to 2017 National Treasures.

Step #5. Print the form and organize it.

After you’ve completed the online submission form and entered your payment information, you will be prompted to print the form. When you print, make sure you have four copies. You want to include the first three copies in your PSA order and use the last copy to create the labels. Be sure to enter the number of orders and collectibles on the first page of PSA copy #1 and sign the last page. Also, group the PSA copy #1 sheets and the #2 and #3 copies together.

You want to separate them from each other, making it easier to figure out which sheet goes where. PSA uses these copies during submission, so don’t carelessly throw them in with your order. Fold them up into three different sections and set them aside for now.

#6. Package your cards for shipping.

After you’ve got your cards selected, organized, and input on the form, you’re ready to package them up to ship out. Make sure to use a small box, you don’t want the cards moving around during transit. If they do shit, use air pillows to make sure they do not. I always lay some down before putting the cards in.

On bulk PSA orders, the cards can slip around, so ensure they don’t by using masking tape to tape them together or rubber bands. If you use masking tape, do not use it too much.

After the cards are laid in the box, I like to put bubble wrap on top for added protection. Make sure to put the submission for on top as well for PSA to receive that cards.

Lastly, write the service time on the box. I also like to label the top and bottom to ensure the PSA staff opens the box from the top and not the bottom.

After packaging your bulk PSA order, please take it to the post office and mail it out. I use priority 2-day shipping. If you feel like you want to add insurance, then you can. However, I typically do not. You can also pay for your shipping labels through Paypal here.

How to buy enough cards for a PSA bulk submission.

I felt relief as I dropped my well-packaged 110-card box of cards off at the post office for PSA. Everything I had done to get to this point suddenly dawned on me. All the bidding and offers I had made. All the cards I had returned due to damage or inaccurate listings. Contacting sellers and eBay asking about the location of cards I was supposed to have already received. It was a lot of work.

After all that work and trouble, it dawned on me that I should share my experience with other collectors. Inform them of the process for me building a bulk PSA submission order. This way, when you’re ready for your first 100 card submission, you may have a smooth experience yourself.

Building a bulk PSA order.

Building a bulk PSA submission order is not as easy as you think. Unless you live conveniently next to a local card store or have a considerable collection to filter through, you’re more than likely buying at retail stores like Target and Walmart. But, building a bulk PSA submission order this way could prove to be quite expensive. 

The alternative? Buy your cards online.

As some might know, buying online can be difficult, expensive, and, unfortunately, shady. Let’s look at some of the benefits and risks of online ordering. 

Submit your cards in the correct holder.

Shop Grading Candidate holder on eBay

Be sure to pick up bulk Grading Candidate holders to submit your cards. Do not submit your cards in top loaders, snap cases, screw downs, or anything other than a Grading Candidate holder. If you have a thick card, such as a rookie patch auto or a jersey card, then you may submit that in a thick top loader. I posted a video on submitting thicker cards here.

Six benefits of buying your cards online

Buying your cards on eBay

The great thing about eBay is you can get high-end cards for dirt cheap. It all depends on when the seller listed the item and when it’s scheduled to end. If the seller knows what he is doing, he will have the auction scheduled to end on Monday night around 9′ o clock Pacific time.

This is the time eBay recommends ending an auction for maximum profit. It is the most competitive time to be bidding on an item. So look for auctions ending at random times, like 2:30 in the afternoon or 4:00 AM when most people are asleep. 

#1. Sniping High-end cards for dirt cheap

If you snipe auctions, you can get some high-end cards for dirt cheap. What is sniping? Sniping waits until the very last second to bid on an auction.

Similar to a military sniper or a deer hunter waiting for the very last second to make that perfect shot. Seasoned eBay bidders perform the sniping tactic to win the card at the lowest possible price. Instead of bidding their max bid of $50 at the beginning of an auction, they wait until the last second to get the winning bid.

I have sniped auctions countless times and won roughly 75% with a lower ending price than my max bid.

Tips on winning that bid

If your max bid is $50, it may be someone else’s also. eBay grants the first person who bids $50 the winning bid. Use the “and 1 cent” tip and bid $50 and .01 to win! This way, you only spent an additional penny. Beware that other seasoned buyers also use this tip, so I like to go up and over those rounded numbers and bid $53.99. Chances are the auction will end way below your max bid, but sometimes you get outbid tenfold!

#2. Buying cards in bulk and saving on shipping

Whenever I browse cards on eBay and Amazon, I look for sellers with multiple cards I want to purchase. If the prices are low enough, I’ll buy more than one. Buying in bulk from the same seller gives me a combined shipping discount. This saves me an extra $3 – $5 on shipping per card. Apply this rule to “buy it now” and “make an offer” listings.

Tip on using the buy-it-now feature

If a seller has multiple cards for sale with the make, an offer option goes through and makes really low offers on a bunch of the cards you want. When they see you’re willing to buy multiple items from them, they’re more willing to work with you on the price.

This will increase your chances of getting a great deal on the cards you want. It will also get your 100 card submission numbers up.

#3. Finding the cards you want is easier

Searching a handful of local card stores for a particular card will take too much time and money. Browsing online is the way to go to complete your collection. Don’t get me wrong, you should support your LCS if possible. You can buy your gear there at reasonable prices, like penny sleeves, card savers, and hobby boxes.  

support your local card stores (if you have one)

I live in Knoxville, Tennessee, and we currently have one sports card and memorabilia store called Eddie’s Sports Treasures. I’ve been to his shop, and it is a terrific store. Here is a video of me going there. The location is a bit inconvenient for me, though. I think the sports card stores are losing business due to online sales. If you have a card store in your community, I recommend supporting them. You can buy your gear like penny sleeves, card savers, top loaders, and hobby boxes from them without paying shipping fees. 

However, if you’re looking to collect a specific player, they might not have a large inventory of them. In this case, you will have to purchase them online. 

#4. You get to shop next to your collection

Being around your collection and supplies allows you to see what you have and need. I’ve found this helpful numerous times when shopping for cards I think I need or want. 

#5. You can shop whenever you want!

Shopping whenever you want will lead to countless hours of hunting and sniping eBay auctions to get the cheapest deals. Or making numerous lowball offers on cards you feel are under-valued. Spending more money than you budgeted for or potentially buying cards you never wanted because you wanted to save on shipping. My excuse is that it’s better than wasting my time and money at a bar, right?

#6. Shipping times & refunds

After purchasing, you must wait for the cards to arrive in the mail. Once they arrive, you take the time to inspect them and check for any damage. If you find damage, like significant surface scratching or a crease down the middle, you must send it back for a refund.

You must also consider the cards you buy and decide not to grade. Some cards will arrive with a perfectly centered front, but when you flip the card over, you see the centering is way off. Or there may be a rounded corner visible only on the backside. 

This is why a lot of eBay sellers only show a picture of the front or “better” side.

buying tip

Be cautious when paying premiums for cards you think will grade a 10 and only show a front image. It’s not a total loss if the back is off-center or has a minor flaw. You can still submit them and receive a GEM Mint 10 as long as the edges aren’t flaking and the surface is immaculate.

What cards to collect for a bulk PSA submission?

There are many reasons to collect trading cards. The two main motivations are collecting to invest and collecting as a fan. If you collect to invest, you must do a lot of homework and research. Trying to figure out who the next hot player is has proven impossible over there years. Just look at old Beckett magazines on their predictions. They were way off! It’s comical on how collectors think they know who the next Tom Brady, Derek Jeter, or Kobe Bryant is. 

Collecting as a fan

Collecting cards of your favorite player, character, Pokemon, movie star, or whatever you are into is fun. Depending on who that particular person is will depend on how much money you spend. If you are a fan of your local college football team and they had some players drafted into the NFL, then you can start there.

This worked out great for all the Michigan Wolverine fans collecting Tom Brady rookies in 2001 when nobody else even knew he existed. 

Investing vs. Collecting

The downfall of collecting your favorite player is that you may not have many buyers when you sell your cards. So keep that in mind. If you’re collecting to “collect,” then go get those one-of-ones of that player no one else is collecting for super cheap. If you’re collecting to invest, prepare to do some serious homework and research. 

What I Collect

I enjoy collecting players from favorite teams like The University of Tennessee. Living in Knoxville, TN, I have grown to love the University of Tennessee football. Josh Dobbs, Alvin Kamara, Derek Barnett, and Cam Sutton have been some recent players to enter the NFL and be printed on trading cards. Being fresh rookies from the 2017 draft, the competition to own their top cards is stiff. I’ve been doing major covert sniping, especially for the Dobb’s autos.

I also collect players that perform on the field and are fun to watch. After watching Dak Prescott and Ezekiel Elliott tear it up in 2016, I started collecting their cards. I think their cards will take off in the next couple of years. They were sky-high in 2016 but have since fallen off at more affordable prices. I’ve been scooping them up as fast as I can. Other players from the 2016 draft I collect are Jordan Howard, Carson Wentz, and Tyreek Hill. All future NFL superstars, in my opinion.

play it safe with vintage cards

Vintage 1935 National Chicle and 1949 Leaf are some of the older sets I’ve been looking into buying. Getting a card from one of those sets in a high Mint 9 grade is unlikely, but the lower 5, 6, and 7 grades will prove very profitable. As the years go by they get more and more scarce.

Considering other categories

If you haven’t already, I suggest stepping out of your comfort zone and diving into other sports and non-sport categories. If you’re only into Basketball, check out the recent highest-sold PSA baseball card auctions on eBay. Or dive into Magic the Gathering or Pokemon. You might be interested in collecting 1977 Topps Star Wars. This will improve your knowledge of other valuable and collectible cards from which you could profit. Attend some garage sales and ask for trading cards. They may be sitting on a honey hole!

Only buy from reputable merchants that use PayPal.

I only recommend buying from Amazon, eBay, or a merchant that allows you to pay with Paypal. Many scammers in the collector world are only out to get your money. I’ve known a fair share of guys that paid big money for counterfeit or damaged cards and could not get a refund. Be cautious and alert; if a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is.